Tucked between the steep ridges of southeastern Serbia and the Bulgarian border lies a landscape that feels like the edge of the world. The Jerma River Canyon, with its wild, rugged beauty, is a paradise for explorers, hikers, and anyone drawn to forgotten places. Deep in this hidden valley, the village of Vlasi stands almost frozen in time—isolated, authentic, and shrouded in silence.
This region, far from Serbia’s tourist trails, offers something increasingly rare: wilderness and wonder with barely another soul in sight.
The Jerma River: Untamed and Underrated
The Jerma River (or Erma, as it’s known in Bulgaria) is a mountain stream that slices through vertical cliffs and dense forest. The Jerma Canyon, located near the towns of Pirot and Dimitrovgrad, is narrow and dramatic, with sheer rock faces that rise like cathedrals on both sides of the water.
If you’re looking for hiking and photo opportunities, you’ll find them in abundance here. Trails are often unmarked, but they lead to hidden caves, old bridges, and panoramic viewpoints that feel like they belong in another country—or another century.
Vlasi Village: Where Silence Tells Stories
Once a lively mountain community, Vlasi is now almost entirely abandoned. The winding road to get there is an adventure in itself, twisting through thick pine forests and past derelict farms. Today, only a handful of houses remain intact, and nature has started reclaiming the village.
Yet there’s beauty in the solitude. From Vlasi, you can see the untouched slopes of Stara Planina and breathe the crisp, pine-scented air that’s entirely unpolluted. The stone houses, though weathered, speak of a rural past deeply tied to the land and to centuries-old traditions.
Monastery of St. John the Theologian: A Hidden Sanctuary by the Jerma River
Near the tranquil banks of the Jerma River, not far from the ghostly village of Vlasi, lies the Monastery of St. John the Theologian (Manastir Svetog Jovana Bogoslova). Surrounded by thick forest and dramatic cliffs, this modest but sacred place is one of Serbia’s least-known monasteries—and perhaps one of its most peaceful.
Built on the site of an older medieval sanctuary and later restored, the monastery is home to simple stone architecture, a quiet courtyard, and a deep spiritual atmosphere. It’s often tended by just one or two resident monks, and the silence here is broken only by birdsong and the sound of the river.
What to See and Do
- 🥾 Hike through Jerma Canyon: Follow the riverbed or explore trails toward the Sukovo Monastery ruins.
- 📸 Photograph the old stone bridges: Ottoman-era remnants can be found scattered across the canyon.
- 🏚️ Explore Vlasi Village: Visit at golden hour for hauntingly beautiful scenes of nature overtaking architecture.
- ⛪ Visit the Saint Nicholas cave church: Bring a flashlight—and quiet respect.
- 🌲 Wild camping: Ideal for experienced backpackers looking for off-grid adventures.
Vlaška Planina: The Wild Ridge Above the Canyon
Towering above the Jerma River, Vlaška Planina (Vlaska Mountain) is one of Serbia’s most underrated mountains. With an altitude of over 1,400 meters, it forms a natural fortress above the canyon and creates jaw-dropping viewpoints over southeastern Serbia and neighboring Bulgaria.
This is not a mountain for casual walks—there are no marked trails, no tourist signs, and no facilities. Instead, Vlaška Planina offers raw, silent nature, where you can hike for hours without meeting a single person. From its ridges, you can see the entire Jerma Canyon, Stara Planina peaks in the distance, and even the outlines of Vlasi Village below.
Why It’s Worth the Climb
- 🌄 Panoramic Views: On clear days, the views from Vlaška Planina are among the most dramatic in Serbia.
- 🐾 Wildlife & Flora: Expect to see rare birds of prey, wild goats, and endemic plant life.
- 🧭 Off-the-grid Experience: This is a truly off-grid location—perfect for adventurers who crave isolation.
If you’re hiking Jerma Canyon and have time (and stamina), climbing up toward Vlaška Planina from the Sukovo side is an unforgettable experience. It’s one of those rare places in Serbia where you feel completely untethered from the modern world.
How to Get There
- From Pirot, head east toward the villages of Sukovo and Vlasi.
- A 4×4 vehicle is recommended beyond Sukovo, especially in rainy months.
- Public transport is limited—this is truly a DIY expedition.
Best Time to Visit
- Late spring to early autumn offers the best conditions for hiking and exploring. In winter, the region is harsh and mostly inaccessible due to snow and ice.
Nearby Points of Interest
- Sukovo Monastery – An active Serbian Orthodox monastery with colorful frescoes, just a short drive away.
- Poganovo Monastery – Nestled deeper in the canyon, this 14th-century monastery is a peaceful stop with stunning mountain views.
- Stara Planina Nature Park – For more advanced hiking and mountaineering.
A Place for the Brave and Curious
The Jerma River Canyon and Vlasi Village are not for casual tourists. They are for those who crave the unknown—for photographers, nature lovers, and seekers of silence. This is Serbia stripped bare: no shops, no signs, no crowds—only rock, river, and memory.
Come before the world finds it.
Featured photo: Marko.vl, CC BY-SA 4.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Featured photo: Nenanenad, CC BY-SA 4.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
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