Just a few kilometers from Valjevo, in the village of Tubravić, lies a story told with both awe and sorrow – the Church of Saint Archangel Michael, better known as Valjevo’s Gračanica. What makes this church unique is not only its centuries-old history, but also its fate: since 2016, it has been resting 18 meters beneath the surface of the Stubo-Rovni reservoir.

The church’s history stretches far back into the past. It was first mentioned in Ottoman records in 1560 as a monastery, while archaeological findings – fragments of a monastic residence and graves in its courtyard – suggest that the original structure likely dated back to the 15th century. For centuries, it stood as a spiritual refuge, preserving icons, an iconostasis, and a bell cast in 1860.

Church of Saint Archangel Michael, known under the name Gračanica, photo:
Institute for the Protection of Cultural Monuments of Serbia

The fate of Gračanica was sealed in the 1990s when a decision was made to build a reservoir in the Jablanica River valley. Although there were plans to relocate the church, they never came to life. After long debates and public opposition, in 2003 the bishop of the Šabac-Valjevo diocese gave consent for the flooding, provided that a new church would be built.

The flooding od Valjevska Gračanica, photo: Саша Шљукић, CC BY 3.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Relics, icons, and other treasures were removed, but the building itself could not be saved. In 2016, when the reservoir was finally filled, the church disappeared beneath the water – leaving behind the painful question of whether development should come at the cost of heritage.

And yet, Valjevo’s Gračanica has not completely vanished. Thanks to the divers of the “Borac” Diving and Rescue Club from Čačak, the public has been able to glimpse its underwater remains. At a depth of 18 meters, in icy waters of just five degrees Celsius and near-total darkness, divers recorded surreal images: rays of sunlight piercing through the greenish water, the preserved walls and arches of the church, and even traces of where the last candle once burned. These haunting videos, shared on social media, sparked wide attention and reminded people of the sacred place that still exists beneath the surface.

Today, Valjevo’s Gračanica is more than just a submerged church. It is a symbol, a reminder of the past, and a question posed to the future. Though hidden under water, it continues to inspire divers, researchers, and history enthusiasts, while its story remains an inseparable part of the cultural identity of this region.

Valjevska Gračanica, photo: ID 69110023 | In Serbia ©
Nemar74 | Dreamstime.com

If you ever find yourself in Valjevo, remember that beneath the calm surface of the Stubo-Rovni reservoir, at a depth of 18 meters, lies a centuries-old church. A church that, even underwater, continues to tell its story.

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