When you combine a several decades old authentic recipe, the quality of local ingredients and the experience masters chefs from Novi Pazar, the result is Novi Pazar mantije – a traditional dish of unique taste.
If you ask anybody in Novi Pazar what is the thing that this town is best known for, in most cases you’ll get the following answer: “By ćevapčići” (specialty made of grilled meat dumplings). However, in small craft shops of this little town in southern Serbia, another specialty that has been brightening the mornings of many homemade pie fans for years, is still being prepared. Of course, these are the “mantije” of Novi Pazar, a dish that resembles burek in taste but has a shape like small spheres.
However, this dish is very different from the famous Serbian breakfast – burek. The method of preparation is not similar, the ingredients and the flavors are different, and the only similarity is that yogurt or sour milk goes excellent with both of those dishes. After all, it is best that you find out about these similarities and differences by yourself.
There are no written records about the origin of “pazarske mantije”. According to historical research, the assumptions are that the dish came to the West along with the Genghis Khan’s army. The origin of the name can be traced to the Greek word Mantion, meaning robe or twisting.
What makes the dish a specific food is a traditional method of its preparation. Besides being prepared according to the recipe that the family kept a secret and handed down from one generation to another, the process of preparation is not an easy task. Everything is exactly the same as it was a few decades ago – machines are not being used, thicker unleavened dough is used and steps in the way of preparation are not skipped.
First, the doughis stretched on the large round table. This procedure requires experienced hands, because the thin dough can easily tear apart and lose its shape. After being stretched so that it hangs from the edges of the table, the butter is poured over the dough which is followed by the stuffing. Although “mantije” can be prepared with cheese, only the ones with meat are considered authenitic. The stuffing is made from simple ingredients: beef or pork meat, salt, pepper, onion and a little oil.
Afterwards, the edges of the dough are carefully curled; and this is probably the reason how this dish got its name. The most important thing during the process is that all sides are evenly bent and that they are of the same thickness. Shaping the dough into small balls is the next step ,and then carefully put them in the appropriate pan and bake them in the oven. Interestingly, the original “mantije” are usually baked in old furnaces, which are made by artisans. According to many, this is exactly what gives them their specific taste.
After baking, pleasant and inviting smell of “mantije” opens the appetite and awakens the desire to try them. It depends on the individual taste, but most agree that “mantije” taste best when you eat sour cream or yogurt alongside. It is customary in Novi Pazar to pour yogurt over them and eat while hot. Although commonly bought in the morning for breakfast, this dish is sold throughout the day; it is also common for the locals to welcome their guests with a casse role full of “mantije”.
Despite the great popularity of “mantije” in Novi Pazar, in other Serbian cities few people know of this traditional dish. Fahmir Džemić, owner of the bakery shop “Đurumlija” in Novi Pazar, points out that young people are not fully aware of the value and importance of “mantije”. “Because of the fast food restaurants it is difficult to keep the trade and it is difficult to convince young people to try this dish. On the other hand, older people know what the values of the local specialties are, and what the “fast food” lacks, and that is why they respect us” says Fahmir.
Mantije were inscribed on the List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of the Republic of Serbia on June 18 2012, because the old recipes are used and owing to the fact that the secret of this trade is accurately transferred from generation to generation. They were listed in the National Register of Intangible Cultural Heritage, together with the remaining twenty-six elements.
Serbian diaspora also likes and eats “mantije”
The residents of Novi Pazar like to say, “If one tries “mantije” just once, one will get to love them.” In most cases, this is so, and it is the reason why “mantije” are very much in demand in Serbian diaspora. Although she does not have suitable conditions for the preparation of “mantije”, Radmila Kitanović has been doing that for years. “We moved to Salzburg in 1995. My children were small then, but they liked mantije all the same. Sunday was always a day reserved for making this dish. We used to get together and recall the happy memories from our country, while eating mantije, ” says Radmila.
Radmila points out that besides enjoying the preparation and taste of this specialty, Novi Pazar “mantije” have deeper meaning and significance for the Kitanović family. “The whole process of preparation and having breakfast together has become a ritual to us. This is something that brings us together, what keeps our identity and what reminds us of our country. It is one of the few things that we “brought” from Serbia and continued to cherish” says Radmila and explains that she knows more people around the world who practice this custom with their own families.
