Tucked away in the heart of Stara Planina, where winding mountain trails follow the murmur of crystal-clear rivers and the clouds hang so low you feel you could reach up and touch them, lies Topli Do – a village that seems to have stopped in time decades ago.
This mountain settlement is not just a dot on the map, but a living, breathing monument to a way of life where nature and people exist in perfect harmony.
Life at the End of the Road
In Topli Do, there is no city noise and no rush of cars. The houses are built from stone or sturdy timber, with yards where homemade cheese dries in the sun, bunches of medicinal herbs sway from ropes, and the smell of fresh bread from wood-fired ovens drifts through the air.
The inhabitants are mostly elderly, still keeping traditions alive – tilling the soil by hand, tending sheep and cows, making cheese, kajmak, and rakija. Many still bake bread in old stone ovens. Winters here can bury the village in snow, so food and firewood are prepared well in advance, while summer is a time for gatherings, shepherding, and lively village fairs.
Waters That Tell Stories
Topli Do is a place where every drop of water carries a story. The most famous is told by the Toplodolska River, rushing down the mountain slopes, gifting the village not only life but breathtaking scenery.
The symbol of the village is Čunguljski Skok – a magnificent 43-meter waterfall hidden among cliffs and surrounded by lush forest. Its roar can be heard from afar, and the sight of its white cascade against a green backdrop is unforgettable. Nearby, smaller waterfalls sparkle along the river’s tributaries – hidden treasures for those who seek peace and the sound of untouched nature.
What to See and Experience
A stay in Topli Do means immersing yourself in an authentic Stara Planina story:
- Hiking along mountain trails leading to scenic viewpoints, hidden streams, and pastures where sheep graze freely.
- Visiting waterfalls – besides Čunguljski Skok, explore the smaller yet equally enchanting falls on the Toplodolska River.
- Mountain picnics – enjoy freshly picked wild strawberries, blackberries, or raspberries offered by locals in spring and summer.
- Traditional flavors – try homemade cheeses and kajmak from cow or sheep milk, savory pies with wild greens, baked potatoes from earth ovens, and the inevitable rakija made from plums or pears.
In the Surroundings
Topli Do is also a perfect starting point for exploring Stara Planina. Nearby are Midžor, Serbia’s highest peak, the canyon of the Temštica River, and the old mountain villages of Dojkinci and Gostuša – famous for their preserved architecture and traditional building techniques. Nature lovers can also visit the Trgoviški Timok River and vast mountain meadows covered with wild herbs.
Topli Do is not a place you visit in a hurry – it’s where you come to breathe slowly, listen quietly, and live as our ancestors once did, in rhythm with nature. Those who come here leave with the scent of mountain air, the taste of homemade cheese, and the vision of the white curtain of Čunguljski Skok etched in their memory.
Featured photo: Nikola Spasić
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