The sound of an old Singer sewing machine, the intense smell of natural materials, dozens of unique hats and the charm of times gone by… Wondering if such things still exists and where? Even though you would’ve thought the answer would be negative, it is actually – YES! We’re taking you to a one-of-a-kind craft shop in which time seems to have stopped!
During the 50ies and 60ties of the previous century, a small shop in 34 Balkanska Street was famous for its unique hats, special handiwork and kind masters of the craft. Little has changed to this day. Satisfied customers with wide smiles on their faces as well as authentic hats of all shapes and sizes are still coming out of this lovely little shop located in the heart of the old Belgrade.
So, what’s the trick? As a matter of fact the answer is pretty simple. A love for the job, commitment, dedication and a wish to keep this tradition going is all that’s needed for a trade to last centuries.
These “secrets” of the trade were created in 1950 and passed on to his successors by Radoslav Stefanović, the founder of “Kapa Rade”. He had been learning the craft from his father and uncle, and then decided to start a business of his own. This turned out to be the right decision.
Hats from this shop in Balkanska Street found themselves on the heads of many famous persons such as Rade Šerbedžija, Ružica Sokić, Dragan Nikolić, Stevo Žigon, Ljuba Tadić, Petar Kralj, Dobrica Ćosić, Matija Bećković and many others.
Still, at one point the future of the trade was uncertain. Communism brought on new trends and desired images for people. Elegant and fancy hats were replaced by hats and caps. This is why, at the time, there were eleven shops “producing” these items of clothing. The so-called railroad hats were especially popular back then.
This old craft and art form was saved from “the decay of time” by Rade’s daughter and son-in-law. In year 2000 they “gave life” to this slightly forgotten accessory by acquiring the necessary tools as well as the essential part of every hat – felt or “tuljak”.
They were aided by a new fashion “wave” which brought hats back in style.
People soon became more interested in hats and started dropping by the old milliners shop in Balkanska street. Serbian films and TV shows are also to be given credit for the revival of the “hat trend”. Most of them are set in times when this accessory had been popular.
So, after seeing “Ranjeni orao”, “Montevideo”, “Šešir profesora Koste Vujića” and other films, many Belgrade ladies rushed to get their favourite fashion item.
A short “course” in hat making: First, the felt is dipped in hot glue mixture called “tutkalo”. After that you wait for the mixture to cool, so that you can work with the felt. Then you place it on a mold and work it according to the desired shape. After it dries, which is the longest part of the hat making process, the molding of the hat to a certain size and the application of ornaments can begin.
Today, this interesting little shop located in one of the Serbian capital’s most beautiful streets is an attractions in its own. It’s a favourite place of all those who appreciate old crafts and an obligatory stop of many tourists. They enjoy watching these precisely handmade works of art, and without exception choose to take at least one home.
Another interesting thing is that here you can purchase the exact same hat WWI Serbian soldiers and Josip Broz Tito used to wear. Don’t be surprised if you stumble upon hats for policemen, majorettes and some other head accessories you’ve already seen on a movie screen. Creativity, skill and imagination are the only limits here. So – “let your imagination run free”.
Photo: Filip Plavčić, espreso.rs
