When a group of friends spends a night partying on a “splav” (floating river club) or in a “kafana” (traditional tavern) and the time comes to go home, the host, or the person who’s initiated the whole thing, will usually be paying the entire bill. In Serbia, it is considered almost natural, as an element of good hospitality.
Not visiting a Serbian “kafana“, is like not visiting Serbia st all! By visiting this “institution”, one will learn about our people, their customs, mentality and endless warmheartedness and hospitality; the same things one would learn at museums. Perhaps even more! There is an unwritten rule in Serbia – a good host will bear all guests’ costs. “Paying the bills” is, therefore, an important part of local customs.
When the bill comes, usually before the end of working time in a “kafana“, the host or the one who passed the invitation usually will insist on paying the bill. Very often this is quite surprising for guests from abroad who are used to paying separately.
In Serbia, this is the way for the host to show his respect, how pleased he is to see his friend, or he simply has a good reason to take the friend out for a drink or a meal. And reasons are always easily found!
The origin of this custom can’t be determined easily. One thing is certain, it is directly related to already legendary Serbian hospitality. There are people living in Serbia who look forward to little things, friends who drop by unannounced or acquaintances encountered in the street by chance and then taken to the nearest “kafana” to celebrate the occasion. Therefore one shouldn’t insist on paying the bills separately, if another wants to cover the cost of the whole thing.
It is not usual to share the bill in Serbia, and the host might get insulted. According to the custom, he’s obliged to do it in order for his guests to feel more welcomed and more pleasant. If a guest insists on paying the bills, it is like he’s partially refusing the offered hospitality. And that same hospitality is not to be refused, especially not in “kafana”.
The first kafana in this region was opened by the Turkish merchants and, at first, only coffee was served there. Nevertheless, these “institutions” were soon adopted by the Serbs who started serving first alcohol and then food. Even though more than four centuries have passed since then, “kafanas” haven’t changed much since that time.
These are still the places where people meet, part and meet again. Like once, these are the places where old friends and secret lovers meet, also acquaintances who have bumped into each other after a long time and now want to “celebrate” that encounter…
There’s no problem even if the company is numerous – tables will be joined in a matter of minutes and additional chairs will be brought. Guests won’t be waiting, nor asking for help from the waiters, they will rearrange the tables themselves. And nobody will mind – “kafana” is a place of spontaneity and relaxation where a little of attention is paid to protocols and manners. It’s important that everyone feels pleasant.
Hospitality is a very important part of Serbian tradition. All visitors with good intentions are welcomed, and the host will make sure to please the guests in the best possible way. That is the reason why it’s not so unusual if guests drop by unannounced or the host simply meets them in the street and takes them to a nearby “kafana”. Even then, when technically they aren’t in his house, they are still “his guests”. According to the custom, the one who invited the friends will be paying the bills.
And as time flies in good company, afternoon drink can easily turn into late dinner, after which comes the tamburitza music till early dawn. And all that without any special occasion! Only because life is beautiful and they are all in good health, and because in Serbia people can be sincerely happy for small reasons. And in such occasions – money is no object!
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