The Valley of lilacs: A proof of love

Flowery trees, that were planted in the valley along the Ibar River to welcome the French princess Helen of Anjou, still welcome any visitor in the Valley of Lilacs

Seven centuries have passed and the Valley of lilacs and the enchanting scent of these flowers still carry the love story of a French princess, later Serbian queen, Helen of Anjou.

Serbian king at the time, Uroš I Nemanjić, wanted to welcome his future queen in a particular way, so he ordered beautiful lilacs to be planted along the inaccessible valley of the Ibar river to remind her of her home in Provence.

Serbian medieval state was born in the valley of the rivers Ibar and Raška, from the town of Kraljevo to the south from the town of Novi Pazar.

Steep cliffs of the gorge are hidden by beautiful flowers making the rocky Valley of lilacs more docile. The Valley of lilacs survived all the long centuries symbolizing the love and respect of our people for their noble queen, known for her wisdom and education. Helen of Anjou significantly contributed to the cultural rise of the medieval Serbian state.

She had the first library at the court and encouraged transcription of books in monasteries. She had two sons, Dragutin and Milutin, with King Uroš, the third son of Stefan Prvovenčani (the first-crowned). After her death, she was canonized as a saint.

For the last ten years an international manifestation the “Days of Lilacs” has been organized at the beginning of May. On that occasion legendary kings and the medieval fortress Maglič and the Žiča monastery come to life.

The medieval city-fortress Maglič raises on a steep cliff over the Ibar river and it is assumed that it was named after dense fog that covers the very foundations of the fortress and the whole valley. It is not known who was its founder, but the first written documents on it originate from the 14th century. All seven towers, protected by the Saint George, still stand firm.

The Maglič was built on the steep cliff raising 150 meters above the Ibar. It is located on an extremely inaccessible terrain and it is surrounded by the river on three sides. This fortress is an exceptional example of the Serbian medieval military architecture. The fortress is approachable only from the western side and hiking to the old fortress on a winding path and the suspension bridge can be a true adventure.

Some of the most beautiful Serbian monasteries are located near the Maglič and the Valley of lilacs. The Žiča monastery, the endowment of Stefan Prvovenčani who was crowned the first Serbian king here, is one of the most beautiful monasteries.

According to the legend, six more kings were to be crowned here and that for each a door would be opened and then bricked up. Hence the name, “Žiča of the seven doors”.

The Valley of lilacs begins at Kraljevo, one of the most significant cities in Central Serbia. The city was given its current name in 1882 when Serbia was pronounced a kingdom and king Milan Obrenović was crowned the king in the Žiča monastery.

How to get to the Valley of lilacs?

The Valley of lilacs is surrounded by the old city of Maglič which is in Central Serbia and about 30 km southwest of Kraljevo. If you are traveling from the direction of Belgrade, you will need to cross around 200km and you can go either via the Ibar highway Belgrade-Ljig-Čačak-Kraljevo-Raška or the E-75 motorway Belgrade-Niš where there are two roads to Kraljevo: Batočina-Kragujevac-Kraljevo and Pojate-Kruševac-Vrnjačka banja-Kraljevo.

From Niš you need around 160km to Maglič, and from Novi Sad 270 km.

Buses to Kraljevo are frequent from all the major cities of Serbia and from Kraljevo we suggest taking local transportation or a taxi.

If besides blue and purple fields in the Valley of lilacs you also want to climb to old city of Maglič, get ready for an adventure because that is only possible from the west side by winding roads and cliffs.

When you are already here, don’t miss…

…visiting the Žiča, Ljubostinja and Studenica monasteries.

Žiča was built by King Stefan Prvovenčani and his brother Saint Sava in the early 13th century; Studenica is the endowment of Serbian Grand prince Stefan Nemanja, and Ljubostinja is the endowment of princes Milica, who according to legend, built the temple at the place where she first met her husband prince Lazar.

If you come to this region in spring or in summer, you should try rafting on the Ibar. The starting point is 200km from Belgrade at the place known as “Ušće”.

In early July don’t miss the “Merry Race”, an all day rafting event on the Ibar with improvised rafts.

In the beginning of July have fun in the carnival atmosphere of Carnival of Vrnjci in Vrnjačka banja and in February on Valentine’s Day compete in kissing at the “Poljubi me” (Kiss me) event.

In winter you can visit Mt. Goč which offers excellent fun with night skiing and a quality vacation.

Featured photo: Plezir magazin