The lonely island mountain erected in the middle of great Pannonian Basin, scientists call “the mirror of geographical past”. Serbs can call it the mirror of cultural and spiritual past which hold century’s old forests of the oldest Serbian National park.
Ninety million years ago, Fruška gora mountain was an island in Pannonian sea. When the sea went dry, the island remained without its aquatic neighbor, but in exchange nature bestowed upon it the role of the only mountain in the flat Vojvodina, raised in the shape of a narrow reef, approximately 46 miles long, from which extend single lateral reefs flourishing with oak, hornbeam, beech and basswood forests.
In the endless greenery of these deciduous forests, on the glades of reigning mountain of the Pannonian Basin, 16 monasteries which are lasting for centuries and were built around 16th and 18th century in styles of Baroque and Morava architectural school of medieval Serbia. Due to its riches considering places of worship, Fruška gora is also called Holy Mountain or Serbian Atos.
Once, in its hidden valleys there were 35 Serbian orthodox monasteries built by royal family Branković, continuing the cult of old Nemanjić’s state, but they were annihilated in wars and conquers. The ones that survived the destructions are Krušedol, Novo Hopovo, Grgeteg and Jazak. Many famous Serbs are buried there, like Archbishop Arsenije Čarnojević, king Milan Obrenović and princess Ljubica.
What makes this mountain so extraordinary are its rich vineyards. Pathways of Fruška gora are also wine trails, so in wineries furbished like old Srem households, enjoying a glass of high quality wine, you can experience the spirit and old times of Srem folks, as well as bohemians and gentry who adored this place.
The highest parts of Fruška Gora are the most visited and most attractive ones mainly due to its numerous picnic grounds. Crveni čot (539 m), Veliki Gradac (471), Iriški venac (451 m) and Stražilovo (321 m) where is located a monument of poet Branko Radičević, are domineering Srem and are a challenge to tourists and oasis of peace to its habitants.
On one of the mountain slopes is located the spa Vrdnik where on its thermo mineral sources is built a modern rehabilitation and recreation center. Northern mountain slopes are descending towards Danube which lulls the plain gently with its peaceful hums. Right there in that valley between the river and the mountain are situated two cities – Novi Sad and Sremski Karlovci.
This small mountain is decorated with twelve artificial lakes, and one of the most beautiful ones, Lake of Ledinci, is dried out at the moment, but in a few years water will be re-pumped. Many of these lakes are perfect for fishermen, and the most popular ones for swimming are Bruja near Erdevik, with its small beach, and Sot which besides the beach also has catering establishments, and the best equipped and furnished certainly is the Borkovac lake, only 2 miles from Ruma.
The whirly foamy cascades of Dumbovac waterfall are the only ones on Fruska Gora, on its northern side, and they are a splendid oasis of peace worth the trouble of getting to it. It is located beneath the Brankovac and Beočin meadows, and even when it’s frozen during its peaceful slumber, it still looks magnificent.
This natural abundance, which was declared the first Serbian national park in the 1960, is a home of numerous rare species of fauna and flora. It is the habitat of the Imperial eagle – one of the most endangered species on The IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. Surrounding forests are also habitats of 30 rare types of orchids which scent captivates senses like pure magic.
The beauty of Fruska gora mountain enjoyed by people, herbs, and animals, habitants of Srem are explaining by stories and myths of old. Legend says that while God was creating the universe, resident of Srem had overslept, and came apologetically the following day. However, since God already gave everything away, he had no other choice but to give him a piece of Heaven. And that’s the reason why Srem is a land of Eden, because it has a mountain, Danube and Sava, plain, monasteries, everything your heart desires in a 10 mile radius.
How to get to Fruska gora?
Many paths lead to the queen of Pannonia Basin, situated 40 miles away from Belgrade, and 5 from Novi Sad. There is an old road between these two cities which passes through Sremski Karlovci and leads to the east side of the mountain. Also there is another one which starts in Novi Sad, passes through Sremska Kamenica, and leads to Irig, a large village on the mountain’s west side.
The easiest way of reaching the Fruška gora national park is by taking one out of many buses which connect Novi Sad to mountain’s surrounding villages. The buses depart from the main bus station, and they have frequent intervals of departure during the day. So, if you are visiting Fruška gora from another city, it is best to get to Novi Sad first and take the bus from there and visit the desired part of the mountain.
From Sremski Karlovci you can follow the forest trail half a mile long which leads to Stražilovo.
Taking any train which has a stop in Sremski Karlovci, you can reach Fruška Gora from Belgrade or Novi Sad.
And while you are here, do not miss….
–The cultural routes of Sremski Karlovci and Novi Sad, as well as Petrovaradin fortress.
-Tours of the wineries, of which the best are located in Sremski Karlovci. If you happen to be here late in September, rejoice honoring the wine on Karlovac’s wine festival.
-The most visited and one of the best European music festivals – Exit, which takes place in Novi Sad in July.
Photos: Dragiša Savić www.naturefg.com
